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Forum:	Insects and diseases
Topic:	How do I get rid of Moss?

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<TABLE BORDER=0 cellpadding=4 border=0 cellspacing=1 WIDTH="95%"><TR bgcolor="#004A00"><TD COLSPAN=2><CENTER>T O P I C     R E V I E W</CENTER></TD></TR><TR bgcolor="#dedfdf"><TD valign=top>Jim</TD><TD>I forgot to include this in my last question. How do I get rid of moss in my yard. It is basically around some maple trees in rather large patches and seems to just pull up without any problems.</TD></TR><TR bgcolor="#f7f7f7"><TD valign=top>TURFTIDE</TD><TD>Two items you can try. Dawn Ultra dish soap at 2-3ounces per gallon of water or an iron sulphate at 6 ounces per gallon of water. watch it turn color within hours.</TD></TR><TR bgcolor="#dedfdf"><TD valign=top>Burlap_Etc</TD><TD> <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by Jim: I forgot to include this in my last question. How do I get rid of moss in my yard. It is basically around some maple trees in rather large patches and seems to just pull up without any problems.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Hay, What about Copper Sulfate. If you are trying to control Spanish Moss or Ball Moss or others for that matter find some Copper Sulfate and spray moss after a rain for best results and then it will be dead. Now getting it off. Wish for real high winds. I've never tried soap but thanks for the hint I will experiment. Burlap_Etc</TD></TR><TR bgcolor="#f7f7f7"><TD valign=top>basshead151@hotmail.com</TD><TD>WHY!!!?? green all year, neverneeds mowing or fert., and it looks great with some nice rocks and ferns.</TD></TR><TR bgcolor="#dedfdf"><TD valign=top>seed</TD><TD>I agree with basshead, moss is great. One of the biggest unanswered questions is, "How to grow it?"But, if you still want to get rid of it, there's a web page available to you from Cornell University: <A HREF="http://www.cce.cornell.edu/suffolk/grownet/lawnpest/lawnmoss.html" TARGET=_blank>http://www.cce.cornell.edu/suffolk/grownet/lawnpest/lawnmoss.html</A>Phil</TD></TR><TR bgcolor="#f7f7f7"><TD valign=top>Orlando Dave</TD><TD>You guys must not be from Florida. Moss is a tree's worst enemy here. There are trees all over the place that are dead or dying from spanish moss and air plants. Moss gets so heavy on some trees that you can't see through it even though it's already killed the tree.I've already lost one beautiful oak to it in my yard. I'll try the soap first, thanks for the suggestions.</TD></TR><TR bgcolor="#dedfdf"><TD valign=top>DENYSE</TD><TD>IS IT JUST SPRAYED ON THE LAWN, AND DO I NEED TO SEED THE LAWN IN THE SPOTS?DHARRIS@CUPHEALTH.COM <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by TURFTIDE: Two items you can try. Dawn Ultra dish soap at 2-3ounces per gallon of water or an iron sulphate at 6 ounces per gallon of water. watch it turn color within hours.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE></TD></TR><TR bgcolor="#f7f7f7"><TD valign=top>shadow1994</TD><TD>The cornell U link is dead as of this post. If you read this way past post date of this then it may work. Just thot I would help ty</TD></TR><TR bgcolor="#dedfdf"><TD valign=top>Buttwheat</TD><TD>Give him a blocking assignment, that should do it.OK sorry. That stuff might get rid of the symptom but not the problem (ie your "large patches" comment). If you have it elsewhere in the yard, it might need aerating.[This message has been edited by Buttwheat (edited 19 April 2004).]</TD></TR><TR bgcolor="#f7f7f7"><TD valign=top>Friar Tuck</TD><TD> Moss is mostly a cultural problem,usually in a low light situation,in areas that also hold moisture.Also soils tend to be more acidic in areas where moss is prevailent. Try pruning some branches on surrounding trees to allow more light to penetrate.Also areating and raking in a bit of pros choice select may help,this will improve drainage. Add some lime to the area as well to raise the soil ph. Ferrous sulphate can also help in late may and early june when moss is activly growing </TD></TR><TR bgcolor="#dedfdf"><TD valign=top>josepht</TD><TD> <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by Orlando Dave: You guys must not be from Florida. Moss is a tree's worst enemy here. There are trees all over the place that are dead or dying from spanish moss and air plants. Moss gets so heavy on some trees that you can't see through it even though it's already killed the tree.I've already lost one beautiful oak to it in my yard. I'll try the soap first, thanks for the suggestions.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>I think it is safe to say that they are not talking about the same type of moss you are.They are talink about what grows in moist shady areas like on the shaded side of the house near the ac unit Thinck green stuff that will pull up in clumpsBut the spanish moss is neat I saw it first in Savanna they told me that people use it to make pillows out of But to answer how to control it I got this quote her from the below link Products that change soil pH can be used to control moss. Lime, iron and copper products have been used to control moss. Make your moss control application when moss is actively growing during the spring and summer.<A HREF="http://www.weedalert.com/weed_pages/wa_moss.htm" TARGET=_blank>http://www.weedalert.com/weed_pages/wa_moss.htm</A>this is a great website for referances</TD></TR><TR bgcolor="#f7f7f7"><TD valign=top>cohiba</TD><TD>Friartuck, I agree wholeheartedly. With one thing to add. I feel the main problem with the soils that have moss in the Calcium to Magnesium ratio within the soil is out of whack. Magnesium is overtaking the Calcium. I would(and have on atleast two occasions) add gypsum in high concentrations to the areas(After raking and pulling the moss up). The gypsum will not harm any grass that is there and will not change the soil pH. To change the soil pH you will need to add HI-CAL lime. The calcium will knock the magnesium molecule off the soil coloid and allow for better drainage. Making it harder for the moss to return. Soil tests will confirm if magnesium plays a hand in moss development.Just my two cents......</TD></TR><TR bgcolor="#dedfdf"><TD valign=top>jr</TD><TD>Orlando Dave, spanish moss and ball moss absolutely does no harm to any tree. I am a certified arborist in Melbourne and I deal with this issue constantly. A tree only gets excessive spanish or ball moss growth after it is declining because of some other stress, whether it be an environmental, pest, or cultural issue, or old age. These mosses are not parasites; they simply rely on the tree for structural support, just as soil is the structural support for other plants. They are epiphytes, just like orchids, and get their water from rain, nutrients from the air, and photosynthesize. As the tree declines further, they are able to grow more and more vigorously because of the extra light they receive, but they are not the cause of the decline. At some point, usually beyond any hope of restoring the tree to good health, again because of some other factor, they do become an additional stressor to the tree because of the shade they create. However, some people just don't like the looks of it or are unwilling to accept the fact that the mosses are not a parasite, and if that is the case they are easily controlled with copper sulfate, preferably the wettable powder formulation. </TD></TR><TR bgcolor="#f7f7f7"><TD valign=top>lady tree doctor</TD><TD>Spanish Moss and Ball moss that are in trees have been causing a lot of problems for us in the tree industry. Since moss will not kill a tree I have found that one pound of moss holds two more pounds of rain water which becomes three pounds heavier on the tree or tree limb. When in abundance the spanish moss becomes a wind blocker which in turns can cause damage to the tree should a strong storm or hurricane approach. I'm a certified arborist but I have learned that being certified arborist I must also research what is beneficial as well as what can be dangerous during Florida's strong storms and hurricanes. I have noticed where there is more Spanish Moss there's less leaves and less Spanish moss more leaves especially on the ends and tops of trees. I wish not to create any debates but only show the results of years of research on moss problems. University of Fla recommends spanish moss be pulled out of Citrus and crepe myrtles to avoid the spanish moss becoming too abundant to avoid smothering of the tree. An oak limb of the size of a crepe myrtle or citrus tree can also have the same problems. Hope this helps but I do love research and know what's out there to benefit or hurt the trees. Spraying trees with four different formulas does control the moss problem(s) and I do recommend that only if the moss is too abundant for storms. I thank you for letting me put this on the forum. Claudia, Lady Tree Doctor</TD></TR><TR bgcolor="#dedfdf"><TD valign=top>Darth</TD><TD>Claudia, lady tree expert, What four formulations do you recommend to remove / eradicate the Spanish Moss? It has taken over our oaks and without photosynthesis, the trees are dying. The stand of trees are on a lakefront setting. Thank you. Darth</TD></TR><TR bgcolor="#f7f7f7"><TD valign=top>johnmegrue</TD><TD>Did you get an answer yet? I'm having real trouble with some of my oak trees and need help. E-mail me any info you get at jmegrue@hotmail.com. Many thanks <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by Darth: Claudia, lady tree expert, What four formulations do you recommend to remove / eradicate the Spanish Moss? It has taken over our oaks and without photosynthesis, the trees are dying. The stand of trees are on a lakefront setting. Thank you. Darth<HR></BLOCKQUOTE></TD></TR></TABLE>

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